Paul Chollet - Crémant de Bourgogne with personality
Livets Goda 5 Aug 2019
Crémant de Bourgogne. Far too often the wines are recommended as a fine alternative to Champagne, then of course with a strong emphasis on the price difference, instead of focusing on what everything should really be about - the wines' own expression. The editorials of Livets Goda have tried a trilogy of wines from Crémant expert Maison Paul Chollet, and these are wines that should not be compared to anything else but have their very own style.
Maison Paul Chollet has more than 60 years on its neck and can be found in Savigny-lès-Beaune. They have access to vineyards in both Côtes de Beaune, Côte de Nuits as well as Hautes Côtes, which gives a good foundation if you want to make quality Crémant. For all is about sparkling wines for Chollet, which today is run by the brothers Gilles and Joël Remy. The focus are on the blends with great emphasis on the purity and potential of the grapes to provide a wine that can withstand longer storage. The approach is relatively traditional, but since the brothers took over 2002, they have not hesitated to set one foot in the future.
There are now four wines in Sweden and we have tried the following trilogy:
Paul Chollet Crémant de Burgundy Oeil de Perdrix
Maybe more a blanc noir than rosé but with the grapes being harvested late, they get a faint pink shimmering appearance, hence the name Oeil de Perdrix. Here is pure pinot noir from the locations of Côtes de Beaune, Côtes de Nuits and Hautes Côtes and it is an extremely decent Crémant we have in the glass. Pure fruit, mineral base and fine mousse in transparent red berry style. Fine, firm spiciness that makes us think pinot noir. Maybe a bit short in the end but it compensates with a nice dose of personality. Discreet sweetness. 88/100
Paul Chollet Crémant de Burgundy Brut Zéro
Maison Chollet retrieves chardonnay and pinot noir from vineyards in the same areas as their Oeil de Perdrix. Pinot noir predominates in the wine, which shows developed nuances where the chardonnay has its saying. Not least the woolen shade we attribute to the green grape. Yellow apples and citrus fruits, not least grape, are also included and the lively mousse, the stone fruits and the minerality provides a wine with character and tart and dry stringency. You who like ripening shades will appreciate this tart dry Brut Zéro that has rested 18 months on its lees. 88/100
2011 Concerto, Paul Chollet, Crémant de Bourgogne
This one certainly stands out in style and in part it is due to the grape chardonnay from Côte de Beaune and Hautes Côtes, but also that the wine sees some oak contact and is stored for a full three years on its lees. The vintage 2011 has a beautiful garden note with mint in the tip, cloves as a backup with orange and gentle tropical tones. Despite the rich fragrant scent impression, it is green apple in the salivating taste that sets the tone and offers freshness and spiciness. Pretty delicious this, and still retaining the youth. 89/100