Domaine Rollin Père et fils
Domaine Rollin seems a bit overshadowed by the big names in Burgundy and therefore, do not receive as much attention in comparison. But the company has continuously refined, improved and sharpened its production year after year and thus we also have wines that have very good quality at very reasonable prices.
I sat down with my sommelier world champion friend Andreas Larsson to go through the new vintage of some of the firm's wines. Stable, was the word...
By Anders Enquist
Domain Rollin has its beginnings with Raymond Rollin, who was a vineyard worker at another winery in the village, just like his father before him. Despite a modest income, Raymond over the years acquired several vineyards which he then cultivated outside his working hours.
His son Maurice then started his own business in 1955 as a negociant and with the firm's own plots, and started commercializing a part of the production.
At the same time, they undertook the management of other vineyards on a rental basis and continued to acquire new vineyards. In 1976 Maurice son Rémi joined the business and in the early 1980s they planted new stocks in different vineyards. Since the mid-1990s, all production is under its own label and today the domain manages 14 hectares of vineyards in five different villages, or municipalities in Côte de Beaune and produces 14 appellations. It is in the family home in Pernand Vergelesses that they vinify all the wines, and all the work from vineyards to final storage is done by the domain's own team.
2017 Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru
927 KR / 94 LGP
Anders Enquist about the wine: The earthy limestone, over thin limestone feels very fine in the wine, as does the age of the vines. It creates a deep and long taste. The buttery hint sits where it should, like the winds of white flowers and small-scented citrus fruit. A fine spiciness rests in the wine and we have a fresh finish with good spice and minerality.
Andreas Larsson about the wine: There is an appellation I usually find blind in Burgundy for its combination of rockiness, freshness and fruit, a wine that is wonderfully pure and ages better than most - Corton-Charlemagne of course. A perfect example, in this case with classy scent, cool stone fruit with lightly roasted hazelnuts, ripe citrus, nice oak and a powerful yet healthy structure with wonderful length and a saliva-exuding finish. A wine that truly deserves its grand cru status.
One part of this steeply sloping vineyard has southern exposure above the village of Alex-Corton and was planted mainly in 1976. The other part is located in Pernand-Vergelesses at the top with southwestern exposure and was planted in 1948. The wine matures on the lees about 11-13 months in barriques of which 50% new.
2017 Pernand Vergelesses 1er Cru Sous Frétille
557 KR / 92 LGP
Anders Enquist about the wine: A balanced and complex wine with nicely hinted exotic fruit with white peach and pineapple in the dominating citrus fruit. Crisp, but at the same time slightly caressing in the texture, which gives the wine a glossy elegant feel. Beautiful!
Andreas Larsson about the wine: Ripe fruit, fresh pineapple, floral and more plump but with a well-preserved freshness with fine viscous texture and serious length, the oak discreet in the background.
Steep south-facing position above Pernand Vergelesses. Transparent limestone clay with small stones and limestone. The majority planted in the late 80's. Hand harvesting, slow grape pressing and natural fermentation in oak barrels, of which 30% are new. Malolactic fermentation occurs naturally during winter. The wine matures on the lees about 11-13 months in barriques of which 30% new.
2017 Pernand Vergelesses Les Cloux
NR 74915 / 380 KR / 92 LGP
Anders Enquist about the wine: Concentrated with fresh citrus fruit where slightly exotic elements gives a wider nuance. Good minerality in round structure which at the same time has a tight elegance. Sensual!
Andreas Larsson about the wine: Relatively similar to the wine above, tight, fresh and elegant fruit with chalky elements, but with slightly more smoke and meatiness in a positive way. Tight and long finish.
Vineyard located with a south-eastern exposure on a slope 350 meters above sea level, well protected from winds which mean that this part is always warmer in summer. The wine matures on the lees about 10-12 months in barriques of which 20% new.
2017 Bourgogne Aligoté
NR 72732 / 195 KR / 88 LGP
Anders Enquist about the wine: Driven wine with pure, fresh, elegant citrus fruit and winds of white flowers. In conclusion, the wine shows that there is power in the ground and we have a very competent and good Aligoté in our glasses. A good example of the need for a "white everyday wine". For food, or just as company.
Andreas Larsson about the wine: Clean, fresh and distinct with youthful citrus and almond tones, classic dry with a good bite and vigor.
The lots are located in north-west exposure on the Corton hill. Lean soil, chalky limestone with clay. Half of the vines are more than 50 years old. The grapes must be fermented in steel tanks without yeast supplement and with controlled temperature. Natural malolactic fermentation during the winter, the wine is then allowed to mature on its lees until spring when final blending and bottling takes place.
NR 73319 / 289 KR / 91 LGP
Anders Enquist about the wine: Round, rich structure with vibrating, integrated minerality. The yellow citrus fruit has nice apricot and orange hues and it rests a youthful freshness in the wine which appears distinct and ripe. A very good Bourgogne blanc!
Andreas Larsson about the wine: Stylish scent with nicely balanced barrels, hazelnuts, lemongrass and light stone fruit. Classic dry and positive tight with nice length and nicely embedded oak.
A cuvée with different locations, mostly eastern exposure, on the slopes of the appellation. Transparent chalky white limestone clay. The wine matures on the lees about 10-12 months in barriques of which 10% new.