Anders Enquist 4 Apr, 2019
There are nice things happening on the heights above Castellina Marittima in the Riparbella area not far from the town of Bolgheri. Here we find the excellent wine producer Duemani. Here, Elena Celli, the winemaker Andrea Lupi and the winemaker consultant Luca D’Attoma have over 12 hectares of vineyards located 250-250 meters above sea level. Now vintage 2016 and a 2017 are launched of their wines in Sweden and we are talking Coastal Tuscan wine brilliance.
The first vintage that was launched was in 2004 when the property had 7 hectares of vineyards. Since then they have been planted in batches and the latest were in 2017 with cabernet franc and 2018 with syrah. To this, you also have some merlot in the vineyards. Elena & Co puts their hands and love over the property with great passion, they work completely biodynamical. In the vinification we find both terracotta, concretes, as well as 300 liter barrels, new and used. Livets Goda has visited the property for several years now and can only state that they have gone from clarity to clarity and now belong to the absolute top, along the Tuscan coast. After a few years of absence on the Swedish market and without an importer here, Chastel Beverage has now picked up this golden cast glove and on the fourth of March, a number of wines were launched from Duemani at Systembolaget. Of course we have tried these.
Duemani – The wines
Nr 76571 / 349 kr / 93 LGP
100% cabernet franc and only concretes in the vinification. Shows what vintage in many ways is about on the Tuscan coast. Charming fruit-driven, open approach and stringent roundness in the structure. Give and take vintage, we call it. The origin is there with its maritime salt, the herb tones of licorice and lavender blooming in the vegetal. There is a soft edgie of the tannins, with an integrated spiciness, and the fruit is dark and colored by cherries, currants and dark tobacco, and on the whole is a finely sweet sweetness. Some cedar tones also lie and incubate and tighten the wine slightly. This is a wine in top shape, elegant and available, and at the same time with good cellar potential.
Nr 70048 / 397 kr / 94 LGP
Merlot and cabernet franc distributed 50/50 in a wine with dark skinned fruit, colored by cherries, plums and currants. The vegetal elements are there but withheld and the fruit lurks with the mineral soil and it rests a fine maritime salt and element of the vegetal of lavender, tobacco and licorice. The sweetness carries a tart, red-fruity freshness, the spice sits exactly in fit, the tannins caress with a silky attitude and it is a brilliant wine with long fruitiness in the finish.
Nr 78555 / 1 117 kr / 97 LGP
100% cabernet franc and original maritime power in its most elegant essay. Here, herbs are beautifully made from licorice and lavender, the fruit is colored by plums, dark cherries, currants and stony blood citrus that give a fresh, red fruity power. Tobacco, cedar and some coffee tones give a suggestive "rumble" and accompany the mineral base that opens up into the transparent intensity of the tannins. We have an extremely elegant and sucking distinctive wine. Absolutely brilliant!
2016 Suisassi Syrah
Nr 70717 / 1117 kr / 97 LGP
An exceptionally fine, softly spiced syrah, lustful and stingingly elegant, with a roundabout in sharp position. The vegetal winds echo origin of lavender, licorice and tobacco in maritime winds. The fruit is at the bottom dark, based on the cherries, currants and plums, but has a red-haired shade with an acid-sweetened string that gives off some blood citrus. The length is great and overall it is a very coherent wine with silky seduction in the tannin structure. A great wine!
The wines are found at Systembolagets beställningssortiment här >>
2015 Duemani and 2015 Altrovino is also available as a private import via the importer. Sold in packages of 6 bottles.
2015 Duemani, 96 LGP
Robust with finesse and elegance. Delicious fruit sweetness with a sour string in the cherry, figs (not tired ones), blackberry and with a sweeping spicy touch. The herby winds carry light licorice and dark hints of tobacco, the wine does not fail in the maritime winds. The tannin structure is fruity and oh so inviting and compliant. The wine is thus summed up softly in its power, charming in its intense calm, ripe fruit with power and in the moment super nice ... and seductively good.
2015 Altrovino, 93 LGP
Has taken a rapid development in the fruit which appears very mature but fresh in the elements of salt, licorice, lavender, dark cherry, plum, blackberry. Maritime winds, soft sharpness and exemplary good. Clean and elegant in the lightly robust style, rich dry finish, stony in the mineral.